FREE DESIGN 3: FLEUR DE LYS

Welcome to my Free Instructions for the Fleur De Lys Design!

Designed by embroidery teacher and designer: Tanja Berlin.

Fleur De Lys

Goldwork Sampler

Please help support these free instruction pages by purchasing the supplies that your require from my website, Thankyou.

The Passing Design is in the top right hand corner of the Goldwork Sampler and is worked first.

Fleur De Lys Design Kit    Goldwork Sampler Kit    Materials Required (Purchase Individually)    Email Me!

Please visit the links below for the other free designs:

Home Page!    Goldwork Sampler    1: Passing Design    2: Heart Design    4: Plate Design       View Shopping Cart

All designs featured are by embroidery designer and teacher Tanja Berlin. All rights reserved.

Readers are permitted to print off the instructions from the website and reproduce any of the embroideries on the free webpages for personal use. No part of the text (instructions) photographs, illustrations or embroideries worked may be used for commercial purposes without prior permission of the publisher. If there are any questions please contact the publisher: Tanja Berlin

FLEUR DE LYS

Materials Used

Fleur De Lys

Fleur De Lys Design Measures: 3 inches (7 1/2 cm) wide by 3 3/4 inches (9 1/4 cm) high

Goldwork Sampler - Fleur De Lys Design Kits of Supplies

By purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.

To purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials and Tools at the top of the page, you will be directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When you have decided what you need you can place an order through my order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four designs on one piece of fabric), click here!

Fleur De Lys Design Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)

 Fleur De Lys Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars

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Fleur De Lys Design Kit Includes

 

Off White Silk Noil Fabric 11 inch Square (27 1/2 cm Square) with the Design Hand Drawn on  •  Muslin Backing Fabric  •  Crochet Cotton for Padding  •  1 Spool of Polyester Sewing Thread  •  1  Skein of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread  •  No. 6 Bright Check Purl   •  No. 6 Rough Purl   •  No. 6 Smooth Purl  •  2  No. 10 Crewel Embroidery Needle  •  1 No. 18 Chenille Needle

    Fleur De Lys Kit - Gold 2% Threads: $68.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


     

    (KGSFLD2) Goldwork Sampler Fleur De Lys Kit - Gilt Threads: $45.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE FLEUR DE LYS

Stainless Steel Tweezers with Precision Tips - Important Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars

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Goldwork Pad - for cutting metal threads on: $3.50 Canadian Dollars

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100% Pure Yellow Beeswax Small Rose -1 inches wide and inch thick: $1.50 Canadian Dollars

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For other sizes and types of beeswax click Here!


Scissors: $10.00 Canadian Dollars

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9 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $15.00 Canadian Dollars

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View the   Shopping Cart for mailing costs.

Materials required

Materials can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the product information or by purchasing a kit of the Fleur De Lys Design or the Goldwork Sampler.

Fabric: For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50 cm) square. For the Fleur De Lys design alone you will need a piece of silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.

Backing Fabric: A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for added strength (same size as the silk fabric).

Yellow String: Yellow string or crochet cotton (4 meters) to pad areas of the Fleur De Lys.

Thread: A reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.

Silk Thread: 1 skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is required) to work areas of the Fleur De Lys design. You can substitute a different colour or different brand of silk thread such as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.

Check Purl: 25 inches (62 1/2 cm) of Gold 2% Check Purl No. 6 to work areas of the Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Check Purl No. 6 or Check Purl No. 8.

Rough Purl: 20 inches (50cm) of Gold 2% Rough Purl No. 6  to work areas of the Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or Smooth Purl No. 8.

Smooth Purl: 90 inches (225 cm) of Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6 to work areas of the Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or Rough Purl No. 8.

Tools required

Tools can be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.

A pair of embroidery scissors.

A Sharp Pair of Inexpensive Scissors: for cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.

Tweezers: A pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.

Tracing Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.

A stretcher bar frame: The frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.

Thumb tacks: To pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.

No. 10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.

Bees Wax: To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads, helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred the thread.


Preparing the piece for working

Assemble the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides, the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame go to the following page of my website: Stretcher Bar Frames

Transferring the design onto the fabric

Prick and pounce method: Place a piece of good quality tracing paper over the 'Outline of the Passing Design'  below and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.


    If you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler Diagram and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric.


Outline of the Fleur De Lys Design

Actual Size

Using a Pricker or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all lines have been pricked.

Do not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper with all four designs.

Place the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric, if you are going to do all four designs place tracing paper in the top right left corner of the fabric, the center of the design should be 8 1/8 inches (20 ¼ cm) from the top and 7 7/8 inches (19 ¾ cm) from the left side.

Transfer the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce (charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design. Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over, turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of the fabric. 

Working the design

Starting and finishing threads: Start the thread with the knot on top of the work in an area that you are about to work. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric rather than stitching over the knot (see diagram "Starting a Thread" below). To finish the end of a thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle and thread through the stitches at the back of the work.

Starting a Thread

Fleur De Lys: Padding

String Padding Location: Sections of the Fleur De Lys are padded with lengths of yellow string or yellow crochet cotton, this is to raise the purl threads that will be sewn over top. Yellow is used so that when the purl chips are sewn over top, if there are any gaps between the chips they will be less noticeable. Refer the diagrams below for the exact location of the string and the number of strands used.

String

String Padding

Sewing Down String

The Head of the Fleur De Lys: The center bar is padded with 7 strands of strings tapering of to two at the top and bottom. The side bars are padded with 3 strands of string tapering of to 1 at top and bottom of the band.

Take a length of yellow string a little longer than the bar to be padded, refer to diagram "Number of strings" above for location of string and the number of strands used for each bar.

Double up the string to the required strands for that bar and then pull all the strands together through beeswax, so that the string is entirely coated and stiff with wax. Waxing the string will ensure that it is firm so that the shape of the padding does not deform when sewing the purl chips over top and so that no fluffy parts of the string will stick up between the chips.

Lay the length of strings along the center of the bar to be padded, the ends of the string should extend out past the end of the bar.

Begin sewing down the string at the center. Using a single strand of the yellow sewing thread work a stitch over the width of the string at a 90º angle to the edge of the string, keep the stitch and string within the outline of the bar (see diagram 5. below). Sew down the string working from the center to the end of the bar at 1/8 of an inch (3 mm intervals). If the bar that you are padding begins to get narrower towards the end, cut away a string (or two) from underneath the top strings so that the end tapers off and doesn't end in a big bulk of string (see diagram "Cutting String" below).

At the end of the bar cut the strings sheer to the pencil line, sew over the ends of the string with a couple of stitches so that they lay neatly (see diagram "Sewing Down Ends" below).

Sewing Down String

Cutting String

Sewing Down Ends

Work back to the center of the petal turnover couching down any fluffy or stray pieces of string that may be sticking up. Work the other side of the bar in the same method (see diagrams below).

Sewing Down and Cutting String

Finishing off

Sewing Down String: Arms of the Fleur De Lys

The Upper Arms of the Fleur De Lys: are padded with three strings in the wider section tapering of to two strings then one string in the narrow section, leave a gap between the upper arm and the head of the Fleur De Lys.

The Lower Arms of the Fleur De Lys: are padded with one strand of string, leave a gap between the lower and upper arm.

Always begin in the center of the section to be padded (see diagram "Sewing Down String" below), sew down the string with in the pencil line of the design to the end of the section. Cut away string from underneath the uppermost strings so that the string tapers of nicely (see "Cutting String" diagram below).

Sewing Down String

Cutting String

Cutting String at the End

Sew down the string to the end but do no overlap the pencil line, sew down any fluffy bits are sticking up. Come back to the center of the section and sew down the string to the other end.

Sewing Down Ends

Cutting String

Sewing Down String: The Center and Bottom Section of the Fleur De Lys

The Center Section of the Fleur De Lys: The bars in the center section of the Fleur De Lys are padded with 1 strand of string.

The Bottom Section of the Fleur De Lys: The bar is split down the center and is padded in two sections. A gap must be left down the center between the two sections. Pad the section by sewing down one piece of string, starting at the tip of triangle that sticks out of the side, work up and down the triangle and then along the length of the entire section against the center pencil line leaving a gap down the center of bottom section.

Bottom Section

Fleur De Lys: Silk Shading

Long and Short Stitch: The red sections in the head and center section of the Fleur De Lys are embroidered in red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 in the method of long and short stitch.

First Row: The first row of long and short stitch is worked at the top of the Fleur De Lys. Beginning in the center of the section to be embroidered, a long stitch is made for about 3/8 of an inch (10 mm) long. The stitch is worked from the inside of the section and onto the pencil line at the top of the Fleur De Lys (see diagram 1. below). The second stitch is worked next to the first for a length of ¼ of an inch (6 mm) long from the inside of the section and onto the pencil line at the top of the Fleur De Lys. Another long stitch is worked for the same length as the first stitch and then another short stitch is worked for the length of the second stitch. This stitch process is repeated so that both sides of the section are embroidered covering the pencil line on the top edge and at the side of the section. It is okay to overlap into the string section (see diagram 2 and 3. below).

1. Long and Short Stitch

2. First Row

3. Long and Short Stitch

Second Row and all Consecutive rows: The second row and all consecutive rows are worked in the following method.

Bring the first stitch up in the center of the section, this time bring the needle up underneath the long stitch in the first row about 1/16th of an inch from the end of the stitch and split the stitch. Take the needle down into the fabric about 3/8th of an inch (10 mm) in the center (see diagram 4. below).

The next stitch is brought up through the short stitch of the first row about 1/16th of an inch from the end of the stitch and is taken down for the same length as the previous stitch but is taken down higher in the fabric so that the end is off set from the first stitch.

4. Second Row and Consecutive

Long and Short Stitch

5. Second Row and Consecutive

The third stitch will be worked in the same method as the first stitch and the fourth stitch will be worked in the same method as the second stitch. This stitch process is continued to the edge of the section (see diagram 5. above). You will notice that this time all the stitches are the same length but alternate in position.

It is important to split the stitch in the first row with the needle as this will ensure that the long and short stitches will blend nicely. If there are any gaps go back and fill them in before working the next row.

Fleur De Lys: Gold

The padded bars of the Fleur De Lys are worked over in three different types of Purl Gold threads See diagram of Material Used for the location of the different type of purl threads.

Purl threads come as a long hollow tube made off tightly wound gold, which either has a smooth shiny surface (Smooth Purl), a smooth dull surface (Rough Purl) or jaggered shiny surface (Check Purl). The hollow tube is cut up into sections known as chips or beads. These chips are threaded onto the needle and sewn over the string padding.

Head of the Fleur De Lys

The three bars on the head of the Fleur De Lys are worked using Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8.

The smooth gold chips are sewn at 45º angle over the string working from bottom left to top right. 

Thread up a single stand of the yellow sewing thread into the needle for about 40 inches (100 cm) double up the thread so that the fold of the thread is in the eye of the needle. Wax the thread this will give the thread a smooth surface which helps prevent the gold chips from unwinding on the thread.

Start at the center of the band on the left side, thread the chip onto the needle, sew the chip over the string like a bead and take the needle down on the right side of the band next to the red silk (see diagram "Sewing Down a Chip" below), make sure there is no fabric showing between the end of the chip and the silk.

Sewing Down a Chip

Sewing Down a Chip

If cracks appear in the gold and it buckles then the gold chip is too long (see photo of cracked chip below), if the string and sewing thread is showing then the chip is to short (see photo of short chip below)  in both cases you will have to take the chip off and thread up a new one.

Cracked Chip

Short Chip

Removing a Chip: Loosen the unwanted chip on top of the work exposing the sewing thread. Take a hold of the sewing thread with the aide of a Mellore or tweezers and pull the sewing thread and needle back up through the fabric. To make the process easier hold the needle vertically underneath the work so that the eye of the needle is against the fabric, this will ensure that the needle pulls through the fabric easily and the thread does not break. Remove the unwanted chip and thread on a new chip. Keep the wrong size chips as these can be used in other areas of the band.

Work from the center of the band to the top and then from the center to the bottom of the band.

See diagrams below.

Sewing Down Chips

Working the Top Half

Working the Bottom Half

Top of Fleur De Lys

Center Section of the Fleur De Lys:

Smooth Purl Vertical Bars: The two bars running vertical on each side of the Fleur De Lys in the center are worked using Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8. Sew down the chips by starting on one side of the string at the center, sewing the chips from the left side to the right at a 45º angle to the string.

Center Section

Check Purl Horizontal Bar: The Center horizontal bar of the Fleur De Lys is worked in the Gold 2% Check Purl No. 6 you can substitute with Gold 2% Check Purl No. 8 or Gilt Check Purl No. 6 or no. 8. Work the center bar beginning at the center sewing the purl chips from bottom left to top right at a 45º angle to the string (see diagram 18. below).

The Bottom Section of the Fleur De Lys

The bottom of the Fleur De Lys is worked in the Gold 2% Check Purl No. 6 and embroidered in two sections. The bottom 2/3rds is split into two down the center and each side worked separately. The top 1/3rd (where the section is narrower) is worked in one section.

Check Purl

Bottom Section

Left Side of the Bottom Section: Sew the first chip from the tip of the triangle on the side of the section to establish the angel and take the needle down in the gap in the center of the section. The left side of the bottom section is worked at a 45º angle to the string working from bottom left to top right. Work the chips up to the line across the section taking the chips down in the center of the section between the pieces of string. Past the line across the section the area gets to narrow to take the chips down in the center, now take the chips down on the other side of the section (see diagram "Sewing Down Chips" below).

Sewing Down Chips

Left and Top Section

Bottom Right Section

Top of the Section: Work up to the top of the section covering all the string and keeping the chips on the outside of the pencil line so that the pencil line is not showing. At the top left of the section the chips are shorter so the end of the section finishes of rounded (see diagram "Left and Top Section" above).

Bottom Left Section: Come back to the center of the section next to the first chip sewn down, work the bottom of the left section bringing the needle up on the left outside and sewing down the chip in the center of the section (see diagram "Left and Top Section" above).

Bottom Right Section: The right side of the section is worked at a 45º angle to the string working from bottom right to top left. Each chip meets in the center of the section ensuring there is no gaps between where the chips from the left section meet the chips in the right section (see diagram "Bottom Right Section" above).

Arms of the Fleur De Lys

Upper Arms: The Upper arms of the head of the Fleur De Lys are worked using Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8.

Left Arm

Fleur De Lys Arms

Right Arm

Start in the center of the section. The chips on the left arm are worked from top left to bottom right at a 45º angle to the string and the chips on the right arm are worked from top right to bottom left. As you work around the curve of the arm it may be necessary to spread the chips further apart on the outside of the arm as the outside is wider than the inside and it is important to keep the 45º angle, if you make the chips slightly longer any gap created by spreading the chips further apart should be filled (see diagrams below).

Sewing Down Chips

Upper and Lower Arms

Lower Arms: The lower arms are worked using Gold 2% Rough Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2% Rough Purl No. 8 or Gilt Rough Purl No. 6 or No. 8. Start in the center of the section (see diagram above) and refer to the colour picture for the direction in which the chips are sewn down.


For Instructions for each of the individual designs please click on the following links:

Passing Design  |  Heart Design  |  Fleur De Lys  |  Plate Design

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Tanja Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs  

Address: 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW, Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4, Canada Telephone: (403) 274 6293  Email: tanja@berlinembroidery.com