FREE DESIGN 2: HEART DESIGN

Welcome to my Free Instructions for the Heart Design!

Designed by embroidery teacher and designer: Tanja Berlin.

Heart Design

Goldwork Sampler

Please help support these free instruction pages by purchasing the supplies that your require from my website, Thankyou.

The Passing Design is in the top right hand corner of the Goldwork Sampler and is worked first.

Heart Design Kit    Goldwork Sampler Kit    Materials Required (Purchase Individually)    Email Me!

Please visit the links below for the other free designs:

Home Page!    Goldwork Sampler    1: Passing Design    3: Fleur De Lys    4: Plate Design       View Shopping Cart

All designs featured are by embroidery designer and teacher Tanja Berlin. All rights reserved.

Readers are permitted to print off the instructions from the website and reproduce any of the embroideries on the free webpages for personal use. No part of the text (instructions) photographs, illustrations or embroideries worked may be used for commercial purposes without prior permission of the publisher. If there are any questions please contact the publisher: Tanja Berlin

GOLDWORK HEART DESIGN

Materials Used

Heart Design

Heart Design Measures: 3 inches (7 1/2 cm) wide by 3 1/4 inches (8 cm) high

Goldwork Sampler - Heart Design Kit of Supplies

By purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.

To purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials and Tools at the top of the page, you will be directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When you have decided what you need you can place an order through my order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four designs on one piece of fabric), click here!

Heart Design Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)

    Heart Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: View Cart


Heart Design Kit Includes

 

Off White Silk Noil Fabric 11 inch by 11 inch (27 1/2 cm by 27 1/2 cm) with the Design Hand Drawn on  •  Muslin Backing Fabric  •  Felt with the Design Hand Drawn on for Padding  •  Crochet Cotton for Padding  •  1 Spool of Polyester Sewing Thread  •  1  Skeins of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread  •  Super Pearl Purl  •  1 Skein of Imitation Japanese Thread  •  Fine Rococco  •  2  No. 10 Crewel Embroidery Needle  •  1 No. 18 Chenille Needle

    Heart Design Kit - Gold 2% Threads: $75.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


    (KGSHD2) Heart Design Kit - Gilt Threads: $55.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE HEART DESIGN

Stainless Steel Tweezers with Precision Tips - Important Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: View Cart


100% Pure Yellow Beeswax Small Rose -1 inches wide and inch thick: $1.50 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: View Cart

For other sizes and types of beeswax click Here!


Scissors: $10.00 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: Colour: View Cart


9 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $15.00 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: View Cart


View the   Shopping Cart for mailing costs.

Materials required

Materials can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the product information or by purchasing a kit of the Heart Design or the Goldwork Sampler.

Fabric: For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50 cm) square. For the passing design alone you will need a piece of silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.

Backing Fabric: A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for added strength (same size as the silk fabric).

Felt: Piece of yellow felt approximately 3 inch by 3 inch (8 cm by 8 cm) for the leaves.

Yellow String: Yellow string or crochet cotton (1 meter) to sew down across the heart for padding.

Thread: A reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.

Silk Thread: 1 skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is required) to sew down the Japanese thread and for the cord around the heart. You can substitute a different colour or different brand of silk thread such as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.

Japanese Thread: 1 skein of Japanese Gold thread No. 7 (10 meters is required) to work the heart. You can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Passing No. 5 or Gilt Smooth Passing No. 5.

Fine Rococco: 3 1/2 yards of Gold 2% Fine Rococco to work the leaves. You can substitute with Gilt Rococco, Medium Rococco, Crinkle Cordonnet or No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Pearl Purl: 44 inches (110cm) of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl to outline the leaves, veins and stems. You could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Tools required

Tools can be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.

A pair of embroidery scissors.

A Sharp Pair of Inexpensive Scissors: for cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.

Tweezers: A pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.

Tracing Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.

A stretcher bar frame: The frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.

Thumb tacks: To pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.

No. 10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.

Bees Wax: To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads, helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred the thread.


Preparing the piece for working

Assemble the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides, the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame go to the following page of my website: Stretcher Bar Frames

Transferring the design onto the fabric

Prick and pounce method: Place a piece of good quality tracing paper over the 'Outline of the Passing Design'  below and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.


    If you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler Diagram and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric.


Outline of the Heart Design

Actual Size

Using a Pricker or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all lines have been pricked. Do not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper with all four designs.

Place the pricked tracing paper onto the center of the fabric, if you are going to do all four designs place the tracing paper in the bottom left hand corner of the fabric, the center of the design should be 7 5/8 inches (19 1/2 cm) from the bottom and 7 7/8 inches (20 1/2 cm) from the left side.

Transfer the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce (charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design. Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over, turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of the fabric. 

Working the design

Starting and finishing threads: Start the thread with the knot on top of the work on the pencil line of the design or in an area that will be covered. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric rather than stitching over the knot (see diagram below). To finish the end of a thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle and thread through the stitches at the back of the work.

Beginning a Thread

Leaves

Felt: Each leaf has a layer of yellow felt padding. Using the pricked tracing paper of the design pounce the leaf shapes onto the piece of yellow felt. Draw the leaves and vein lines onto the felt using a permanent fine tipped marker pen such as a Sanford Sharpie).  Cut out the leaves on the pen line and place them onto the design on the fabric. Sew down the felt leaf shapes with a single strand of the yellow polyester thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle sewing from the outside of the felt and down into the felt at a 90º angle to the felt edge with small stitches at ¼ of an inch (6 mm) intervals for a length of 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) (see diagram below).

Felt

Sewing down felt

Stems, Stem Tendrils, Leaf Veins and Leaf Outlines

Stems: The stems, stem tendrils leaf veins and leaf outlines, are worked in approximately 44 inches of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl, you can substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Thread a single strand of waxed yellow polyester thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle. Begin sewing down the pearl purl at the tip of the bottom left hand leaf, sew down the end pearl and then every 3 or 4 pearls by slipping the stitch in the diagonal twist of the gold. Sew the stitch at an angle so that the thread disappears between the pearls of the gold (see diagram 1. below), if the thread does not disappear, stretch the pearl purl slightly to make room for the thread.

Pearl Purl

Pearl Purl 1.

Sew down the pearl purl along the center of the leaf (see diagram 2. below) and along the pencil line of the stem all the way around to the other side of the design to the bottom right hand leaf. When you reach the tip of the leaf, cut the pearl purl and sew a stitch over the last pearl so that it does not stitch up.

Pearl Purl 2.

Pearl Purl 3.

Stem Tendrils: Using the Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl, sew down the first pearl at the end of the tendril covering the pencil line (see diagram 1. below). With the aide of a pair of fine tipped tweezers, turn the pearl purl on the tight curves at the beginning of the tendril, sewing the pearl purl down every 3 or 4 pearls to where the tendril joins the stem, carefully cut the pearl purl so that the last purl buts up against the stem (see diagram 2. below).

Pearl Purl Tendrils

Tendrils 1.

Tendrils 2.

Leaf Veins and Stems:  Using the Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl work the center leaf first and then the two side leaves. Begin sewing the pearl purl down at the tip of the leaf, sew the pearl purl down the vein line and stem to the main stem. Cut the pearl purl so that the last purl buts up against the main stem.

Leaves: Rococco

3 1/2 yards of Gold 2% Fine Rococco is used to work the leaves. You can substitute with Medium Rococco, Crinkle Cordonnet, No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Cut a length of rococco 3 inches (7 ½ cm) long; leave a short ½ inch (1 ¼ cm) tail of the rococco hanging at the tip of the leaf next to the pearl purl vein line. Using a single strand of the yellow polyester sewing thread waxed in a No. 10 embroidery needle sew over the single strand of rococco at the tip of the leaf at a 90º angle to the edge of the rococco. Sew down the rococco at ¼ inch intervals to the base of the leaf (see diagram 1. below).

Rococco Leaves

Rococco 1.

 

At the base of the leaf use the fine tipped tweezers to bend the gold back on itself, (see diagram 2.)

Sew a stitch in the fold of the rococco, fit the kinks in the second row of rococco into the kinks of the first row and work the stitches in the second row between the stitches of the first row so a bricking fashion is created with the stitches (see diagram 3).

Rococco 2.

Rococco 3.

Thread one of the ends of the rococco into a No. 18 embroidery needle and take the needle down through the fabric (at the edge of the felt) to the back of the work (called plunging, see diagram 4 below). Do the same with the other end and then over sew the two ends to the stitches at the back of the work (see diagram 5. below).

Rococco Ends 1.

Rococco 4.

Rococco 5.

Continue working the leaf in rows of rococco alternating the stitches in each row in the bricking fashion so that both sides of the leaf are filled, there should be no felt showing between the rows of roccoco and on the edges of the leaf.

Rococco Ends 2.

Rococco 6.

Leaf Outlines: Pearl Purl

Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl is used to outline all the leaves, you could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Sew the first pearl down at the base of the leaf, where the edge of the leaf meets the pearl purl stem. Sew the pearl purl down around the outside of the leaf; (see diagram below) at the tip of the leaf make a nice sharp bend in the pearl purl using a pair of fine tipped tweezers.

Sew the pearl purl down the other side of the leaf to where the edge of the leaf meets the stem, cut the pearl purl so that the last pearl buts up against the stem.

Pearl Purl Outline

Pearl Purl Outline

Heart

String Padding:The heart is padded with approximately 9 horizontal rows of yellow crochet cotton or string. Run the 25 inch (60 cm) length of the crochet cotton through bees wax so that all sides of the crochet cotton is coated and is stiff with the wax.

Using a single strand of the yellow sewing thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle, sew a length of string down along one of the pencil lines drawn on the heart starting at the center. Work a string width stitch over the string, at a 90º angle to the edge of the sting, sew down the string from the center of the heart to the edge at 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) intervals (see diagram 1. below).

At the edge of the heart cut the length of string sheer to the pencil line edge, sew one or two stitches over the end of the string so that the end does not stick up (see diagram 2. below). Carry the thread back to the center of the string and sew the string down to the other side of the heart finishing the end of the string in the same method.

String 1.

String 2.

Work all 9 rows of string in the same method. The row at the top of the heart is worked in to sections rather than across the opening at the top of the heart.

String

String 3.

Heart: Goldwork

1 skein of No. 7 Japanese Gold thread (10 meters) is required to work the heart. You can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Passing No. 5 or Gilt Smooth Passing No. 5.

Cut a length of Japanese thread 5 inches (12 ½ cm) long: fold the length in half, nipping the gold with the fine tipped tweezers so that there is a nice sharp fold.

Using a single strand of the red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 silk thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle bring the needle up at the top center of the heart, and take the needle down over the fold of the gold (see diagram 1. below).

Lay the two strands of the Japanese thread vertically down the center of the heart. Where the two strands cross the pattern drawn on the heart shape (between the string), bring the needle up on one side of the Japanese thread, take the thread across the two strands of the Japanese gold and take the stitch down on the other side, pulling the stitch tight. Work a second stitch over the first stitch, this will help anchor the two strands of gold between the strings causing a dip in the Japanese strands and will form part of the heart pattern (see diagram 2. below).

Japanese Gold

Japanese Gold 1.

Japanese Gold 2.

Where ever the Japanese threads cross the heart pattern (drawn at intervals between the strings) sew two stitches over the Japanese threads and anchor them. At the bottom of the heart leave the ends hanging from the top of the work.Work the second row to the left of the first row in the same method as the first row, sewing the gold down in the same pattern as the first row (see diagram 3. below).

Japanese Gold Heart

Japanese Gold 3.

Japanese Gold 4.

Work the third row next to the second row, this time sew down the Japanese Gold in-between the string off set from the stitches in the first two rows so a new pattern is created on the Japanese gold threads. Work the fourth row in the same method (see diagram 4. below).

Continue alternating the position of the stitches every two rows, for the duration of the pattern (see diagram 5. below), work the other side of the heart shape in the same method.

Heart - Finishing Ends: Plunge 4 strands of the Japanese threads on the edge of the heart to the back of the work and sew all four ends together to the stitches at the back of the work. Do not take all the gold strands to the back of the work at once as it will get very messy and it will be hard to divide up the strands to sew them down.

Japanese Gold 5.

Japanese Gold Ends

Heart: Outline

The Heart is outlined in a red cord made out of the Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916.

Making a cord: Cut six single strands of the silk thread each 20 inches (50 cm) long. Tie the three pieces together at each end with a knot.

With the help of a friend or reluctant family member, each take a take a pencil and slip it in-between the three lengths of floss up against the knot. Keeping the floss and pencils taught, wind the pencils in opposite directions to each other (see diagram 1. below), slowly the floss will twist up. Keep turning until the floss is just about to buckle (if you are both turning the pencil in the same direction the floss will not twist). One person now pinches the three threads in the center and pulls down. The other person takes the two pencils and pulls up; keeping the threads taught. The person holding the threads at the bottom; with the other hand pinches the threads together a little way up, letting the bottom twist up into a cord, this action is repeated until the whole cord has twisted (see diagram 2. above). Tie the ends off by threading up a strand of the red floss in the No. 10 needle and sewing around the ends of the cord so that the cord does not untwist.

Making Cords 1.

Making Cords 2.

SEWING DOWN CORDS

 Leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end of the cord hanging from the top center of the heart. Using a single stand of the red silk thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle sew down the gold cord at 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) intervals. Sew each stitch at an angle so that the stitch disappears in the twist of the cord, give the cord a little twist if the sewing thread is showing to hide the thread then go onto the next stitch. Sew around the outside of the cord and work the stitches into the cord. When you get back to the top center of the heart, leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging (see diagram below).

Plunge the two ends to the back of the work and over sew the ends of the cords to the stitches at the back of the work.

Sewing down cords

Sewing down cords


For Instructions for each of the individual designs please click on the following links:

Passing Design  |  Heart Design  |  Fleur De Lys  |  Plate Design

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Tanja Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs  

Address: 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW, Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4, Canada Telephone: (403) 274 6293  Email: tanja@berlinembroidery.com