FREE DESIGN 1: PASSING DESIGN

Welcome to my Free Instructions for the Passing Design!

Designed by embroidery teacher and designer: Tanja Berlin.

Passing Design

Goldwork Sampler

Please help support these free instruction pages by purchasing the supplies that your require from my website, Thankyou.

The Passing Design is in the top right hand corner of the Goldwork Sampler and is worked first.

Passing Design Kit    Goldwork Sampler Kit    Materials Required (Purchase Individually)    Email Me!

Please visit the links below for the other free designs:

Home Page!    Goldwork Sampler    2: Heart Design    3: Fleur De Lys    4: Plate Design       View Shopping Cart

All designs featured are by embroidery designer and teacher Tanja Berlin. All rights reserved.

Readers are permitted to print off the instructions from the website and reproduce any of the embroideries on the free webpages for personal use. No part of the text (instructions) photographs, illustrations or embroideries worked may be used for commercial purposes without prior permission of the publisher. If there are any questions please contact the publisher: Tanja Berlin

PASSING DESIGN

Materials used

Passing Design

Passing Design Measures: 2 7/8 inches (7 1/4 cm) wide by 3 1/4 inches (8 cm) high

Goldwork Sampler - Passing Design Kits of Supplies

By purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.

To purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials and Tools at the top of the page, you will be directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When you have decided what you need you can place an order through my order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four designs on one piece of fabric), click here!

Passing Design Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)

 Passing Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars

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Passing Design Kit Includes

Off White Silk Noil Fabric 11 inch Square (27 1/2 cm Square) with Design Hand Drawn on  •  Muslin Backing Fabric  •  Felt with Design Hand Drawn on  •  Reel of Polyester Sewing Thread  •  1 Skein of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread  •  #14 Spangles  •  No. 1 Twist  •  No. 5 Smooth Passing  •  Super Pearl Purl  •  1 No. 10 Crewel Embroidery Needle  •  1 No. 18 Chenille Needle

    Goldwork Sampler Passing Design Kit - Gold 2% Threads: $60.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


    (KGSPAD2) Goldwork Sampler Passing Design Kit - Gilt Threads: $45.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE PASSING DESIGN

Stainless Steel Tweezers with Precision Tips - Important Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars

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100% Pure Yellow Beeswax Small Rose -1 inches wide and inch thick: $1.50 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: View Cart

For other sizes and types of beeswax click Here!


Scissors: $10.00 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: Colour: View Cart


9 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $15.00 Canadian Dollars

Quantity: View Cart


View the   Shopping Cart for mailing costs.

Materials required

Materials can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the product information or by purchasing a kit of the Passing Design or the Goldwork Sampler.

Fabric: For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50 cm) square. For the passing design alone you will need a piece of silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.

Backing Fabric: A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for added strength (same size as the silk fabric).

Felt: Piece of yellow felt approximately 4 inch by 3 inch (10 cm by 8 cm) for the center design.

Thread: A reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.

Silk Thread: 1 skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is required) is used for the red drops. You can substitute a different colour or different brand of silk thread such as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.

Spangles (Pailettes): 14 spangles (spangles are sequins) to sew on the design.

Twist: 60 inches (150 cm) of Gold 2% WM No. 1 Twist is used to outline the red drops. You can substitute with Gilt No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist. You could also use Super Pearl Purl or No. 5 Smooth Passing.

Passing: 6 yards (5 1/2 meters) of Gold 2% WM No. 5 Passing thread is used for the center of the design. You can substitute with Gilt No. 5 Passing thread or No. 7 Japanese gold thread.

Pearl Purl: 20 inches (50cm) of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl is used to outline the passing. You could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Tools required

Tools can be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.

A pair of embroidery scissors.

A Sharp Pair of Inexpensive Scissors: for cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.

Tweezers: A pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.

Tracing Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.

A stretcher bar frame: The frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.

Thumb tacks: To pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.

No. 10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.

Bees Wax: To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads, helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred the thread.


Preparing the piece for working

Assemble the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides, the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame go to the following page of my website: Stretcher Bar Frames

Transferring the design onto the fabric

Prick and pounce method: Place a piece of good quality tracing paper over the 'Outline of the Passing Design'  below and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.


    If you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler Diagram and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric.


Outline of the Passing Design

Actual Size

 

Using a Pricker or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all lines have been pricked.

Do not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper with all four designs.

Place the pricked tracing paper onto the center of the fabric. With the tracing with all four designs use the horizontal and vertical lines that cross in the center of the design to help position the fabric.

If you traced the above design and you think you may want to do all four designs later, but you are not sure yet, you can place the tracing paper in the top right hand corner of the fabric. The center of the design should be 7 3/4 inches (20 cm) from the top and 7 ¾ inches (20 cm) from the right side. You can then add the other three designs to the fabric later on, or stop after the Passing Design.

Transfer the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce (charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design. Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over, turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of the fabric. 

Working the design

Starting and finishing threads: Start the thread with the knot on top of the work in an area that you are about to work. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric rather than stitching over the knot (see diagrams below). To finish the end of a thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle and thread through the stitches at the back of the work.

1.

2.

3.

Red drops: Satin Stitch

The red drops are worked in satin stitch using a single strand of the red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'Alger No. 916 in a No. 10 embroidery needle, you can use a different colour or substitute with a different brand of silk thread or embroidery floss.

Bring the first stitch up at the tip of the drop on the pencil line, take the stitch across the center of the drop and take the needle down on the rounded end of the drop (see satin stitch diagrams 1. below).

Satin Stitch Drops

Satin Stitch 1.

Satin Stitch 1.

Bring the needle back up on one side of the tip on the pencil line to so that the stitch follows the shape of the drop, take the needle down next to the stitch at the round end of the drop, there should be no gaps between the two stitches. Continue working one side of the drop keeping the stitches on the pencil line so that it follows the shape of the drop (see satin stitch diagrams 2. below). The other side of the drop is worked from the center stitch to the outside (see satin stitch diagram 3. below. All the red drops are worked in the same method.

Satin Stitch 2.

Satin Stitch 2.

Satin Stitch 3.

Satin Stitch Close Ups

Top Satin Stitch Drops

Center Satin Stitch Drops

Bottom Satin Stitch Drops

Red drops: Outline and spangles

60 inches (150 cm) of Gold 2% WM No. 1 Twist is used to outline the red drops. You can substitute with Gilt No 1. Twist or 1 ½ Twist or Super Pearl Purl or Passing thread.

Leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging from the tip of the drop, using a single stand of the waxed yellow polyester thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle sew down the gold cord at 1/8th of an inch (3mm) intervals. Sew each stitch at an angle so that the stitch disappears in the twist of the gold, give the gold a little twist if the sewing thread is showing to hide the thread then go onto the next stitch. Sew around the outside of the cord and work the stitches into the cord. When you get back to the tip of the drop, leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging (see diagram 6. below).

Red drops with two outlines: Outline the red drop first, when you get back to the tip continue sewing down around the tip using the fine tipped tweezers to turn the gold cord, sew the cord around the outside line back to the tip and leave an end hanging.

Sewing Down Twist

Sewing Down Twist

Sewing Down Twist

Take all the ends to the back of the work (called plunging) by threading the ends into the No. 18 embroidery needle and taking the ends to the back of the work (see plunging ends diagrams below).

Plunging ends

Plunging ends

Plunging ends

Over sew the ends to the stitches at the back of the work (see diagram of finishing of ends below). Before finishing of the thread turn the embroidery to the right side up and sew down a spangle in the top of each drop, work two stitches over the spangle vertically at the top and bottom of the spangle.

Finishing of ends

Spangle

Center design

Felt: Using the pricked tracing paper of the design pounce the center shape onto the piece of yellow felt. Cut out the felt shape on the pounce line and place it onto the pencil line on the fabric. Sew down the felt piece with a single strand of the yellow polyester thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle sewing from the outside of the felt and down into the felt at a 90º angle to the felt with small stitches at ¼ of an inch (6 mm) intervals for a length of 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) (see diagram 10. below).

Felt

Sewing Down Felt

Sewing down passing

The felt shape is worked over with 6 yards of Gold 2% WM No. 5 Passing thread, you can substitute with Gilt No. 5 passing or No. 7 Japanese gold thread.

Cut a length of passing 24" long; fold the length in half, nipping the fold with the fine tipped tweezers so that there is a nice sharp fold.

Using a single strand of the yellow polyester sewing thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle bring the needle up at the end of the felt shape in the center and take the needle down over the fold of the gold (see diagram 11. below).

Starting the Passing

First Row of Passing

Bring the next stitch up 1/16th of and inch (2 mm) from the end and sew a stitch over both lengths of the passing so that any gap at the fold is closed.

Sew stitches over the two lengths of passing at ¼ of an inch (6 mm) intervals, along the center of the felt shape (you can draw a line down the center of the felt as a guideline using a permanent fine tipped marker pen such as a Sanford Sharpie). Leave the ends hanging at the other side of the felt shape.

Work the second row in the same method as the first row, beginning at the same side, this time work the stitches in the second row between the stitches of the first row so a bricking fashion is created with the stitches (see diagram 11. below). Continue filling in the felt shape with rows of passing, you may require just a short length on the edge to cover the felt.

Sewing down first row

Bricking fashion

Leave ends handing at top

Plunge all the ends to the back of the work at the edge of the felt and sew the ends to the stitches at the back of the work as explained with the No. 1 Twist cord (click here to see the diagram) .

Plunging ends

Plunging ends

Plunging ends

Pearl Purl

The passing shape is outlined with 20 inches (50cm) of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl, you could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.

Use a single strand of the yellow polyester thread waxed in the No. 10 embroidery needle. Begin sewing down the Pearl Purl at any position on the edge of the shape. Sew down the end pearl and then every 3 or 4 pearls by slipping the stitch in the diagonal twist of the gold, (much like sewing down the No. 1 Twist) sew the stitch at an angle so that the thread disappears between the pearls of the gold (see diagram 14. below).

Curve the gold when working around the curves of the shape. When you get back to beginning cut the pearl purl so that the last Pearl buts up against the very first Pearl and sew a stitch over the last pearl so that it does not stitch up.

Sewing down pearl purl

Sewing down pearl purl

Sewing down pearl purl

Passing and Pearl Purl

Finished Piece

Passing and Pearl Purl


For Instructions for each of the individual designs please click on the following links:

Passing Design  |  Heart Design  |  Fleur De Lys  |  Plate Design

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Tanja Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs  

Address: 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW, Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4, Canada Telephone: (403) 274 6293  Email: tanja@berlinembroidery.com