FREE DESIGN 4: PLATE DESIGN

Welcome to my Free Instructions for the Plate Design!

Designed by embroidery teacher and designer: Tanja Berlin.

Fleur De Lys

Goldwork Sampler

Please help support these free instruction pages by purchasing the supplies that your require from my website, Thankyou.

The Passing Design is in the top right hand corner of the Goldwork Sampler and is worked first.

Plate Design Kit    Goldwork Sampler Kit    Materials Required (Purchase Individually)    Email Me!

Please visit the links below for the other free designs:

Home Page!    Goldwork Sampler    1: Passing Design    2: Heart Design    3: Fleur De Lys       View Shopping Cart

All designs featured are by embroidery designer and teacher Tanja Berlin. All rights reserved.

Readers are permitted to print off the instructions from the website and reproduce any of the embroideries on the free webpages for personal use. No part of the text (instructions) photographs, illustrations or embroideries worked may be used for commercial purposes without prior permission of the publisher. If there are any questions please contact the publisher: Tanja Berlin

GOLDWORK PLATE DESIGN

Materials used

Plate Design

Fleur De Lys Design Measures: 2 3/4 inches (6 3/4 cm) wide by 3 1/2 inches (8 3/4 cm) high

Goldwork Sampler - Plate Design Kits of Supplies

By purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.

To purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials and Tools at the top of the page, you will be directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When you have decided what you need you can place an order through my order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four designs on one piece of fabric), click here!

Plate Design Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)

 Plate Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars

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Plate Design Kit Includes

 

Off White Silk Noil Fabric 11 inch Square (27 1/2 cm Square) with the Design Hand Drawn on  •  Muslin Backing Fabric  •  Felt with the Design Hand Drawn on for Padding  •  1 Spool of Polyester Sewing Thread  •  1  Skein of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread   •  No. 6 Smooth Purl  •  Milliary Wire  •  Whipped Plate  •  No. 6 Broad Plate  •  No. 1 Twist  •  #14 Spangles  •  2  No. 10 Crewel Embroidery Needle  •  1 No. 18 Chenille Needle

    Plate Design Kit - Gold 2% Threads: $90.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


    Plate Design Kit - Gilt Threads: $60.00 Canadian Dollars

    Quantity: Silk Fabric Colour: View Cart


TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE PLATE DESIGN

Stainless Steel Tweezers with Precision Tips - Important Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars

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Goldwork Pad - for cutting metal threads on: $3.50 Canadian Dollars

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100% Pure Yellow Beeswax Small Rose -1 inches wide and inch thick: $1.50 Canadian Dollars

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For other sizes and types of beeswax click Here!


Scissors: $10.00 Canadian Dollars

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9 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $15.00 Canadian Dollars

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View the   Shopping Cart for mailing costs.

Materials required

Materials can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the product information or by purchasing a kit of the Plate Design or the Goldwork Sampler.

Fabric: For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50 cm) square. For the passing design alone you will need a piece of silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.

Backing Fabric: A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for added strength (same size as the silk fabric).

Felt: Piece of yellow felt approximately 4 inch by 3 inch (10 cm by 8 cm) for the center of the design and.

Thread: A reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.

Silk Thread: 1 skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (3 meters is required) to stitch the arms of the Plate Design. You can substitute a different colour or different brand of silk thread such as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.

Smooth Purl: 8 inches (20 cm) of Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6 to work areas of the Plate Design. You can substitute with Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or Smooth Purl No. 8.

Milliary Wire: 36 inches (39 cm) of Gilt Milliary Wire to outline the center and arms of the plate design. You can substitute with Super Pearl Purl or Pearl Purl No. 1

Whipped Plate: 30 inches (75cm) of Whipped Plate to work areas of the Plate Design. You can substitute with Gold 2% WM Broad Plate No. 6.

Broad Plate: 30 inches (75cm) of Gold 2% Broad Plate No. 6 to work areas of the Plate Design. You can substitute with Whipped Plate.

Twist: 3 1/2 yards (3 1/4 meters) of Gold 2% WM No. 1 Twist is used to outline areas of plate and outline the inside of the Milliary outline on the arms of the plate design. You can substitute with Gilt No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist. You could also use No. 5 Smooth Passing.

Spangles (Pailettes): 100 spangles (spangles are sequins) to sew on the design.

Tools required

Tools can be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.

A pair of embroidery scissors.

A Sharp Pair of Inexpensive Scissors: for cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.

Tweezers: A pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.

Tracing Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.

A stretcher bar frame: The frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.

Thumb tacks: To pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.

No. 10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.

Bees Wax: To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads, helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred the thread.


Preparing the piece for working

Assemble the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides, the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame go to the following page of my website: Stretcher Bar Frames

Transferring the design onto the fabric

Prick and pounce method: Place a piece of good quality tracing paper over the 'Outline of the Passing Design'  below and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.


    If you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler Diagram and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric.


Outline of the Passing Design

Actual Size

 

Using a Pricker or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all lines have been pricked.

Do not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper with all four designs.

Place the pricked tracing paper onto the center of the fabric. With the tracing with all four designs use the horizontal and vertical lines that cross in the center of the design to help position the fabric.

If you traced the above design and you think you may want to do all four designs later, but you are not sure yet, you can place the tracing paper in the top right hand corner of the fabric. The center of the design should be 7 7/8 inches (20 ¼ cm) from the bottom and 7 3/4 inches (19 ¾ cm) from the right side. You can then add the other three designs to the fabric later on, or stop after the Passing Design.

Transfer the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce (charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design. Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over, turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of the fabric. 

Working the design

Starting and finishing threads: Start the thread with the knot on top of the work in an area that you are about to work. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric rather than stitching over the knot (see diagram below). To finish the end of a thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle and thread through the stitches at the back of the work.

Starting a Thread

Plate Design: Padding

Felt: Sections of the Plate Design are padded with yellow felt, this is to raise the metal threads that will be sewn over top. Yellow is used so that when the twist is sewn over top, if there are any gaps between the rows of twist they will be less noticeable. Refer the diagrams below for the exact location of the felt and the number of layers used.

Felt

Felt Padding

Using the pricked tracing paper of the design pounce the center area, the triangle area, and for the 5 round areas onto the piece of yellow felt.

Draw onto the center felt piece the four shapes using a permanent fine tipped marker pen such as a Sanford Sharpie) and draw the two triangle shapes onto the triangle felt piece.

Cut out an additional felt piece for the triangle at the bottom of the design and trim away 1/16th of an inch (2 mm) around the edge of the felt. Place the smaller felt piece onto the triangle area on the fabric and sew it down with a single strand of the yellow polyester thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle. Sew the stitches from the outside of the felt and down into the felt at a 90º angle to the felt at ¼ of an inch (6 mm) intervals for a length of 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) and anchoring each of the points of the felt shape (see diagram sewing down felt).

Sewing Down Felt

Cut out the other felt pieces and place them onto the pencil line on the fabric.

Sew down the larger triangle piece over the top of the smaller triangle piece.

Sew down the center piece and the 5 round pieces.

The half oval shape in the center area of the design has three extra layers of felt which are sewn on top of the felt piece already applied. Cut out one piece of felt the same size as the shape drawn on the felt, one 1/16th of an inch (2 mm) smaller and another an additional 1/16th of an inch (2 mm) smaller. Sew down the smallest piece of felt onto the center half oval shape, then the middle size and finally the largest size. It is important to sew the smallest shape down first so that the edges of the smallest shape is covered by the next larger shape and so on, in this way there is only one felt edge to be couched over with the plate rather than three edges. Draw on to the top layer of felt the shapes on which he plate will be worked in permanent marker pen. Sew a piece of felt for the center of the shape on top of the three layers of felt to raise the center shape above the rest.

Milliary Wire Outlines

The center area, the triangle area and the s-arms of the Plate design are outlined in approximately 36 inches (39 cm) of Gilt Milliary Wire. You can substitute with Super Pearl Purl or Pearl Purl No. 1. The Milliary Wire consists of central core wire, with a coiling wire around it.

Milliary Wire

Sewing down the Milliary Wire

Triangle Area: Cut the end of the Milliary wire so that it is neat. Sew several stitches over the end of the wire fastening it securely at the point on the left hand side of the felt shape using a single strand of waxed sewing thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle. The end of the Milliary Wire is not taken to the back of the work so it is important to sew the end down neatly and securely so that the wire coil does not unravel.

Sew the Milliary wire down along the edge of the felt with a single stitch every 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) interval, positioning the stitch so that it is sewn over the center core at a 90 degree angle to edge of the Milliary wire. You may have to turn the Milliary Wire when couching it down so that the wire coiled around the center core is facing out of the design rather than against the felt (see diagram above).

At the points of the felt shape use a pair of tweezers to help turn the Milliary wire. Sew the Milliary wire around the entire shape. At the end cut the Milliary Wire sheer to the beginning and neatly couch over the end so that is securely attached and meets with the beginning of the Milliary Wire. If the ends look a little uneven you can sew a spangle over where the two ends meet.

Center Shape: The edge the center felt area is outlined in the Millliary wire in the same method as the triangle area beginning at the bottom point of the felt piece.

S-Arms: The s-arms of the Plate design are outlined with the Milliary Wire in the same method as the triangle area, begin sewing down the Milliary wire at the bottom of the s-arm.

S-Arms: Silk Shading

Long and Short Stitch: The red s-arms of the Plate Design are embroidered in red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 in the method of long and short stitch.

First Row: The first row of long and short stitch is worked at the top of the s-arm. Beginning in the center of the section to be embroidered, a long stitch is made for about 3/8 of an inch (10 mm) long. The stitch is worked from the inside of the section and down next to the Milliary Wire (see diagram 1. below). The second stitch is worked next to the first for a length of ¼ of an inch (6 mm) long from the inside of the section and down next to the Milliary Wire outline. Another long stitch is worked for the same length as the first stitch and then another short stitch is worked for the length of the second stitch. This stitch process is repeated so that both sides of the section are embroidered, working the stitches as close as possible to the Milliary Wire outline (see diagram 2. below).

1. Long and Short Stitch

2. First Row

3. Second Row

Second Row and all Consecutive rows: The second row and all consecutive rows are worked in the following method. Bring the first stitch up in the center of the section, this time bring the needle up underneath the long stitch in the first row about 1/16th of an inch from the end of the stitch and split the stitch. Take the needle down into the fabric about 3/8th of an inch (10 mm) in the center.

The next stitch is brought up through the short stitch of the first row about 1/16th of an inch from the end of the stitch and is taken down for the same length as the previous stitch but is taken down lower in the fabric so that the end is off set from the first stitch.

Angle the stitches so that they follow the s-shape (see diagram 3. above).

4. Long and Short Stitch

5. First Row

6. Long and Short Stitch

The third stitch will be worked in the same method as the first stitch and the fourth stitch will be worked in the same method as the second stitch. This stitch process is continued to the edge of the section. You will notice that this time all the stitches are the same length but alternate in position (see diagram 4. above).

7. Long and Short Stitch

8. Long and Short Stitch

Long and Short Stitch

It is important to split the stitch in the first row with the needle as this will ensure that the long and short stitches will blend nicely. If there are any gaps go back and fill them in before working the next row. The stitches should follow the s-shape of the arm, it may be necessary around the tight curve at the top and the bottom of the arm to work the stitches smaller to enable the stitches to follow the curve. See diagrams 5. 6. 7. and 8. for the angle of the stitches around the curve of the arm.

Plate Design: Plate Areas

Various areas of the Plate Design are worked in Gold 2% WM No. 6 Broad Plate  and Whipped Plate. See Plate Areas diagram below, for locations of the plate.

Plate Areas

Plate Areas

Broad Plate

The center shape (half oval) of the center area and the two triangle shapes on the triangle area are worked in with approximately 30 inches (75cm) of Gold 2% WM No. 6 Broad Plate . You can substitute with Whipped Plate.

Center Shape: Thread up a single stand of the yellow sewing thread into the needle for about 40 inches (100 cm) double up the thread so that the fold of the thread is in the eye of the needle. Wax the thread this will give the thread a smooth surface which helps prevent the thread shredding on the plate. The plate is laid by folding the plate horizontally (back and fourth) across the shape, beginning at the bottom of the shape at the point. It is important to begin sewing the plate down at the narrowest end or at the point as the plate is impossible to fold back and forth from a wide end to a narrow end.

Lay the plate horizontally along the bottom point of the shape. Sew a stitch over the plate on the edge of the shape (see diagrams of the first stitch below). Fold the plate back across the stitch just made so that the plate is laying in the opposite direction. Sew a stitch over the plate on the opposite edge of the shape so that the plate is secure (see diagram of second stitch below) and then fold the plate back over the stitch, laying the plate back across the shape in the opposite direction again. You will have to slightly angle the plate so that it is being folded up the shape rather than just going back over the same spot, ensuring that there are no gaps between the rows of laid plate and that the securing stitches are not visible.

First Stitch

First Stitch

Second Stitch

Continue sewing a stitch over the plate at the edge of the shape and folding the plate back across the shape working up to the top of the shape (see working back and forth diagrams). At the top of the shape cut the plate leaving 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) extra at the end, fold the end under and sew a stitch in the fold of the plate to anchor the plate at the edge of the shape (see diagram sewing down the end of the plate below).

Working Back and Forth

Working Back and Forth

Sewing Down the End

Center Area: Whipped Plate

Center Area: The two triangle shapes and the top narrow shape on the center area are worked in approximately 30 inches (75cm) of Whipped Plate. You can substitute with Gold 2% WM Broad Plate No. 6.

Triangle Shapes: Begin the triangle shapes on the side points, sewing down the whipped plate for each shape at the point of the shape. Sew down the plate in the same method as the center shape this time folding the plate vertically (up and down) the shape (see diagrams below).

Broad and Whipped Plate

First Stitch

First stitch

Second Stitch

Working Back and Forth

Sewing Down the End

Narrow Shape: Begin the narrow shape at the top of the shape folding the whipped plate horizontally (back and forth) to the bottom of the shape.

Triangle shapes: The two triangle shapes on the triangle area are each worked separately. Begin sewing down the plate for each shape at the point of the shape. Sew down the plate in the same method as the center shape this time folding the plate vertically (up and down) the shape (see diagrams above).

Plate Design: Twist

Twist: 3 1/2 yards (3 1/4 meters) of Gold 2% WM No. 1 Twist is used to cover the felt areas around the plate on the triangle area, center area and in-between the Milliary outline and the silk floss on the s-arms. You can substitute with Gilt No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist. You could also use No. 5 Smooth Passing.

Working the areas around the plate: Sew the Twist around the plate shapes so that all the felt is covered, plan the best route by laying the twist around the areas before hand, try to avoid starting and finishing the ends to often.

Leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging from the starting point, using a single stand of the waxed yellow polyester sewing thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle sew down the gold cord at 1/8th of an inch (3mm) intervals (see sewing down twist diagram). Sew each stitch at an angle so that the stitch disappears in the twist of the gold, give the gold a little twist if the sewing thread is showing to hide the thread then go onto the next stitch. When there is no more felt to be covered in the area leave a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging (see sewing down the twist diagram below).

Twist Around the Plate

Sewing Down the Twist

Take all the ends to the back of the work (called plunging) by threading the ends into the No.18 embroidery needle and taking the ends to the back of the work and then over sew the ends to the stitches at the back of the work (see plunging ends and sewing down ends diagrams below).

Taking an End to the Back of the Work

Sewing Ends to the Stitches at the Back of the Work

If there are gaps where the twist does not meet exactly, you can cover the gap using a spangle and smooth chip as explained in spangle circles instructions following.

S-Arm Inside Outline: The inside of the s-arm against the Milliary Wire is outlined with one row of the twist covering any gaps between the Milliary Wire and the Red Silk Floss. Begin sewing down the twist at any position on the inside of the Milliary wire leaving a one inch end. Sew the cord down around the arm, when you reach the beginning take both ends to the back of the work and over sew the cord ends to the stitches at the back of the work.

Spangles Circles and S-Arm Decoration

The round felt areas and the center of the s-arms are decorated with spangles sewn in place with a Gold 2% WM No. 6 Smooth Purl chip (bead).

Round Spangle Area: Each round area has approximately 11 spangles.

Thread up a 40 inch (100 cm) length of waxed sewing thread into the needle so that the fold of the thread is in the eye of the needle. Bring the needle up on the edge of the round felt piece, thread a spangle and a 3/16 inch (5 mm) long smooth chip onto the needle, slide the spangle and chip down the thread so that they are level with the felt, put the needle back down through the hole of the spangle (see diagrams sewing down a spangle below).

Round Spangle Areas

Sewing Down a Spangle

Controlling Curve of a Chip

Sewing Down a Spangle

Controlling Curve of a Chip

Sewing Down a Spangle

Using a Mellore or a pair of fine tweezers, place the pointed end of the tool half way along the smooth chip, gently pull the thread back through the spangle, curving the chip around the tool to form a loop (see diagrams controlling curve of a ship above).

Bring the needle up in place for the next spangle on the edge of the felt, the next spangle should slightly overlap the first spangle so that there is no gap in-between the spangles. Sew down the next spangle with a smooth purl chip in the same method as the first, the second spange should slightly overlap the first spangle (see diagrams above).  Continue sewing down the spangles around the edge (approximately 7) and then fill in the center (approximately 3).

Sewing Down a Spangle

Controlling Curve of a Chip

Round Spangle Area

S-Arm Spangles: There are approximately 18 spangles sewn down the center of the s-arm. Position the spangles using pins and then sew down the spangles in the same method as the round spangle shapes using a small smooth purl chip (see diagrams below).

Left Arm

Sewing Down Spangle

Controlling Curve of a Chip

Right Arm


For Instructions for each of the individual designs please click on the following links:

Passing Design  |  Heart Design  |  Fleur De Lys  |  Plate Design

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Tanja Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs  

Address: 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW, Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4, Canada Telephone: (403) 274 6293  Email: tanja@berlinembroidery.com