METAL THREAD GLOSSARY Metal Thread Glossary  |  The History of Metal Threads  |  Metal Thread Supplies List of Metal Threads English and (French) Terms Click on the blue headings to see a picture of the embroidery thread. Bullion Threads (French) Wire Bullions are very fine wire threads wound into a tubular shape, similar to purl threads but tend to be stretchier, the making process of the bullion thread originates in France and was used traditionally for Military uniforms on the epaulets. The bullion threads range in size from No. 10 wire bullion being the smallest to No. 2 being the largest. There are three types of bullion threads, all threads come as a long tube between 10 inches and 40 inches in length depending on the type, this tube is cut up into beads and couched down onto the fabric or over string or felt padding to give the area dimension. Bright Check Bullion has a faceted (zig-zag) surface and is shiny. Wire Bullion has a smooth surface and is matte in appearance. Bright Bullion has a smooth surface and is shiny in appearance. Crimped Purl (Faconnee -French) A textured bullion having characteristic spiral configuration. Crinkle Cordonnet (French) A fine wire tightly wrapped around a cotton core made in France. The cord has a wavy (kinked) serpentine appearance. Crinkle Cordonnet is a similar type of metal thread as Rococo, it is easier to turn but the waves in the thread are not as even. Crinkle Cordonnet is couched down single in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting thread. Flat Worm (Oval Thread) A flattened metal strip is wound around a core yarn giving it a spongy feel. The thread is then lightly flattened so that the finished appearance is similar to broad plate but is more flexible and therefore easier to handle whilst stitching. The thread is couched down with the same colour or contrasting thread. Japanese Thread A metal foil wrapped around a thread core. Japanese threads are usually couched down two threads at the time (as it fills in the design area faster) and couched down with the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting thread in a bricking fashion. If sewn down with a contrasting thread the Japanese thread can be couched down in a pattern or in a range of shades, this is known as Or nue. Lizerine Lizerine is a type of pearl purl, and comes in the same sizes . Lizerine is a flat sturdy coil in comparison to pearl purl and Jaceron which are rounder. Milliary Wire A two part thread, consisting of a central core wire, with a coiled wire around it. The Milliary wire is couched down in a thread of the same colour so that the stitches are not visible. Milliary wire is most appropriate as an outlining thread and is very interesting to look at. Passing A fine wire tightly wrapped around a cotton core. The thread is straight and smooth in appearance. Passing is couched down singularly or double in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting colour and is used for the technique of Or nue. Pearl Purl's (Jaceron - French) Pearl Purls are tightly coiled wires that look like a strand of gold pearls. The making of Pearl Purls originates in the UK and sizes range from Very Fine Pearl Purl being the smallest to No. 4 Pearl Purl being the largest. Jaceron is the same type of thread but tends to be stretchier than the pearl purl, this style of thread is made in France, sizes range from No. 2 being the smallest to No. 10 being the largest. The Pearl Purl and Jaceron need to be stretched before they are used which enables the couching down thread to slip down between the twists of the gold thread. Tiny stitches are used to sew down the pearl purl at 3 or 4 coil intervals in a thread of the same colour and at the same angle as the twist of the pearls so that the thread slips down between the coils and is invisible. Pearl Purl and Jacerons are used as outlines for designs or in combination with other couched threads as a filling thread for designs such as leafs. Plates There are two types of metal Plates: Broad Plate is a broad flat strip of shiny metal approximately 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) wide. The plate is laid by folding the plate back and fourth across a shape, the turn of the plate is on the edge of the shape (the shape should be simple with a smooth edge) the couching down stitches are hidden in the turn of the plate. The plate can also be sewn down by couching a purl bead over the plate or using a coloured couching thread and sewing down the plate in a straight line. Whipped Plate is a broad flat shiny metal plate with a wire wrapped around the plate at an angle. The whipped plate is couched down in the same method as the broad plate. Purl Threads Purl threads are similar to Bullion threads and come in the same sizes but they tend to be firmer and more authentic and are made in the UK. Purl threads are applied to the fabric in the same method as the Bullion threads and come in the following appearances: Bright Check Purl has a faceted (zig-zag) surface and is shiny. Rough Purl has a smooth surface and is matte in appearance. Smooth Purl has a smooth surface and is shiny in appearance. Rococco A fine wire tightly wrapped around a cotton core. The cord has wavy (kinked) serpentine appearance. Rococco is a similar type of metal as Crinkle Cordonnet, it is not as easy to turn as the Crinkle Cordonnet but the waves in the thread are far more even. Rococco is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting thread. Rococco comes in sizes fine, medium and large and is made in the UK. Spangles (Paillette - French) Superior quality metal sequins. The spangles ranges in size from #18 being the finest to #4 being the largest in gold or silver. The spangles are couched down with one stitch that crosses the join of the spangle or with a purl bead couched in the center of the spangle. Twists (Torsade - French) There are various types of twists. Standard Twists: Three strands of metal twisted together to make a cord. Twist size ranges from No. 1 Twist being the finest to No. 6 Twist being the largest. The twists are couched down in a thread of the same colour as the cord, by sewing the stitch at the same angle as the twist of the cord so that the stitches are hidden in the twist of cord and are invisible. Elizabethan Twists: The finest of all the twisted cords. The cord is too fine to be sewn down in the same method as the standard twists as the stitches would show. The twist is couched down in the same method as Japanese and Passing threads with the couching down stitches being a feature. Grecian Twists: Four strands of metal twisted together to make a cord. The Grecian twists tends to be stiffer than the standard twists an and are sewn down in the same method. Sizes come in fine, medium and heavy and makes a great outlining thread. Russia Braids (Soutache - French): A metal braid either twisted in one colour or a mix of metallic and colour - makes a great outlining thread and is down by either couching over the braid or sewing down the center.All through recorded history fabrics have been enhanced with metal threads on garments of the kings and emperors, as an aid for worship, to convey status and to portray wealth. The History of Metal Threads The early thread was a silver wire covered with a gold coating, which could be drawn out to any thickness and still retain its gold coating. The thread could then be hammered flat and wound around a silk core for couching (Japanese threads, Passing threads and Rococco). The thread could be spun and drawn through a series of holes in diminishing sizes until the thread was fine enough to spiral into bullions and purls (Bright Check, Smooth or Rough Purls and Bullions). The different textured threads were appealing not only for their colour but for the interesting effect the light played on the threads when the threads were sewn over padding. The Middle ages brought the greatest use of metal threads in the use on Church embroidery vestments in what was known as Opus Anglicanum or English Work. The whole backgrounds of these vestments were worked in underside couching using silver gilt threads. A new technique called Or Nue came into production in Europe in the fifteenth century and was used on many vestments. The gold thread was couched in two strands across the design drawn on the background fabric with the design lines picked out with the couching thread. In the Elizabethan period gold threads were used on domestic embroideries, particularly on items of blackwork and silkwork. During the eighteenth century the metal threads were used extensively on the very flamboyant costumes in the English and continental courts. Or nue and church embroidery made a revival in the twentieth century using the metal threads in new and imaginative ways. with designers such as Beryl Dean, Jane Lemon and Barbara Dawson and the Royal School of Needlework. The gold threads today come in a variety of standards: Gold 2% WM is the highest standard gold thread that can be purchased for Goldwork. 2% gold is also known as Admiralty or Government standard and are 2% gold on white metal. Gold 2% is a brighter and truer in colour to real gold than Gilt threads. Gilt is about ½ % of Gold on silver plated copper. Gilt threads are similar in appearance to the Gold 2% but Gilt tends to be more yellow in colour and stretchier than the Gold 2%. Most of the metal threads come in Gold, Silver and Copper. Some of the threads are made in blue, red and green colours such as the Twists, Passing threads and the Russia braids. Threads these days are made in France, UK, USA and India, standard can vary from company to company.